Red is for Gantry – Arnside Viaduct

Arnside Viaduct is the subject of major activity. Close to hand in the give-away-the compound, four sets of double-decker cabins indicating the number of workers involved, a large car park, full, formed of temporary metal plates, stockpiled materials recovered for reuse, and, on the far side, yellow road-rail machines.

Reconstruction

The approach is a temporary track a kilometre long through the fields of Meathop farm, where the speed of site traffic is likely to be governed by a flock of sheep. However, there is nothing sedate about the construction work.

The ‘board room’ walls are lined with a repeating pattern. Eight panels plan in daily detail how all 51 spans will be reconstructed over the course of a 16-week blockade from 28th March to 18th July 2011. Coloured bars run up and down diagrams of the double-track viaduct scheduling the different activities.

Production rates are intense. The deck is split in half for removal so there are a total of 102 deck units to come out and 102 to go in. The plan assumes five spans to come out daily and, later, three per day to be installed.

In between are other activities: drilling sockets for the new bearings, at the rate of 48 holes per day, and placing bearings at 12 a day.

The £11.1 million project was tendered as a design and build contract and awarded to May Gurney.

Project manager Steve Richardson explains, “At the start of the project we got all the main subcontractors together in this room and mapped out how the works would fit together”. This helped all concerned understand the critical activities and how the access would work for each stage, he says.

Key to the programme is the clever method of replacing the decks. Although ingenious, it has been done before, for this viaduct is almost identical to the 49-span Leven crossing ten miles further west which was rebuilt in 2006.

Client Network Rail gave a strong hint of its expectation by including the as-built drawings for the Leven Viaduct in the tender package.

Red gantries

Leven was memorable for the red gantries which ran up and down putting in the new decks. The same technique is being used at Arnside. The red gantry could be mistaken for the same one – in fact, it has been supplied by Mammoet specifically for this project to a design by Chris Booth.

The quantum leap at Leven was to install new maintenance walkways as independent structural units and run the gantries along them. Placing the walkways first, outside the existing bridge, allowed the deck to be reconstructed between them.

1g wheel bearing removal for non abs car - DSM Forums

This is a step by step walk thru for the removal of the wheel bearing in a non abs equipped car. There are several reasons for the need to remove a wheel bearing. The most common is a failure of the bearing which will produce a loud whirring noise as you drive. I am doing this because I noticed a large amount of grease coating the back side of the rotor mounting flange and this is a sign of a outer seal failure which can lead to a bearing failure. Step 0 (optional) I put this in here because I did this but its really up to you. If your seals or bearings have failed and puked grease everywhere you might want to degrease the hub before working on it just to make things less messy. I have a large parts washer that I used but if you dont have access to one I would suggest getting a can of engine degreaser from autozone and soak the hub down with it and let it sit for about 10 minutes then scrub it with a brush and rinse it off to remove the grease. once you do this move to the next step. Take the hub and with it on a flat working surface you will need to remove the inner seal in order to continue to disassemble the wheel bearing. The easiest way to remove this is with a seal puller. If you don't have access to a seal puller a small claw hammer like you would find in a grocery store tool section works perfect or you can use a large Flathead screw driver, Be careful when prying as the bearing is directly under this seal. When using the needle nose pliers I had to stick a small flat head screwdriver behind it as I squeezed the clip so that I could work it loose. This is where it becomes dangerous because as you try to pry this clip out it will normally pop out of the hub with a good amount of force and since your watching the clip to try and get it out it will normally shoot out and get you in the face. set the empty hub aside and pick up the spindle. The next step is to remove the outer bearing race from the spindle so we can replace the outer seal. For this you will need a bearing / gear puller. I have a 3 arm puller but if you don't have one you can borrow them from autozone or other auto parts stores. You will need the puller and a 1 1/8 inch socket to remove the race. Place the puller around the race and with the socket on the spindle and slowly start to apply pressure. I usually spray the spindle with pb blaster just to help the race to move once the puller starts to work.

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